Saturday, July 12, 2014

The French Laundry & Coi Are Really Worth It

When I set out to spend $300 or more on dinner I ask is this worth it? I'm kinda cheap in some ways - comes from having Greatest Generation parents schooled in the realities of the Great Depression. I like to get my money's worth. I'm not very status-driven, at least not in the obvious ways. I drive a 10-year-old roadster & live in a rent-controlled apartment. I'm only really status-driven when it comes to experience. My dream at 8 was to have read every book in the local library, to be someone in the know & someone of vast experience.

That's still true for me today & I seem to be meeting more people like me lately, regardless of income or personal wealth. And this approach seems to be backed up by research in behavioral science - money really can buy happiness - if you spend it on the ephemeral & don't do the same big thing too often.

So ... TFL & Coi, both recently added to the 50 best restaurants in the world list, TFL with 3 Michelin stars, Coi with two ... do they make the cut?

Yes. Absolutely. Of course the food is amazing & the service is impeccable but you already assumed that yeah?

There's been a lot more written about TFL & it's a bit of a drive so if you're planning on going there I'll assume you don't need convincing since you've already gone to a bit of trouble & just be one more voice saying "yeah, it's worth it." But at least a simple why it's worth it. The food will evoke 1 or 2 childhood food memories & turn them on their head. The place will immediately relax you & make you feel welcome. Also the lovely staff will meet you where you are be it food geek who loves to ask questions or eater who just wants to experience without the running food commentary.

And I'm not yet ready to give out my tips on how to score tables at TFL.

On to Coi ...

It shocks me how easy it still is to get a table. I can only attribute that to Daniel Patterson's demeanor & style. Please - I'm not saying I have great insight into the man, I'm just saying when he brings out one of your dishes & talks with you about his food you'll see what I mean. He's passionate but low-key, focused but relaxed, precise but fluid. And his food & the place are the same. So even though it's not fall-down-easy to get a prime-time Saturday table less than a week in advance you're not going to have to play any games either.

I'm scared to say this ... because if too many people say something like this it will cease to be true ... but ... Coi may just be one of the best-kept foodie secrets in SF.

Bottom line - if you know you'll have a free night in SF then by all means plan ahead. But if you find yourself here without much lead time it's worth checking OpenTable for openings or giving them a call.

I'm not going to do a blow by blow of the menus I've had there. If you want to see a sample check them out - see, I've even googled it for you. Of course as with any high-end tasting menu it changes daily with a few standards that appear as appropriate for the season.

Just don't look too hard - you'll spoil the adventure of dishes appearing before you.

Here's a tip - request the room with the window into the exhibition kitchen. It's closed so you don't get heat or noise from the kitchen, just the view. The room is warm & lovely somewhere between the cocoony feel of the aughts & more industrial feel that's in vogue now. The long narrow chest to head height window lets in a cool blue-toned light & all is sterile white & chrome. The contrast is beautiful. There's something about it that really speaks to me about restaurant as theater & as science lab. Clearly though you'll decide for yourself.

Get the wine pairing. Full disclosure, I'm a big fan of the sommelier's pairing at any given restaurant where I respect the food. I like the curated experience. I always get some wines I wouldn't normally choose for a given dish but am always pleasantly surprised. This is a world-class restaurant - they're kinda thinking (& tasting) hard here for something that will, ehem, surprise & delight you.

This should be enough to give you a sense of whether or not it's your style but here are the boring details.
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0 Lindas - the first rule of zero Lindas is we don't talk about 0 Lindas
? Lindas - Linda is interested but hasn't been yet
1 Linda - a solid option if you're nearby & need the service rated
2 Lindas - worth a little extra effort if you're within a mile or two
3 Lindas - make an effort if you're in the area at all but don't kill yourself
4 Lindas - really, you'd be a fool not to get thyself to this place if at all possible
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COI
4 Lindas
seasonal & shifting prix fixe menu, vegetarian option, pretty friendly to special dietary needs but call ahead
$200-300/person depending on wine choices
North Beach, valet parking

OTHER Daniel Patterson joints
  • Ume ? Lindas as Ume, 2 Lindas as former Plum Restaurant
  • Plum Bar 2 Lindas
  • Alta ? Lindas
  • Haven 2 Lindas

RELATED chefs, related styles - Lauren Kiino

Il Cane Rosso was a joint venture but now all hers, Red Dog was to be a joint venture but she did solo via KickStarter